Zifukwa zowonetsera kusamalidwa khungu khungu
Pamene kuchuluka kwa kafufuzidwe komweku kumawoneka pa zomwe zimayambitsa makwinya ndi zotsatira za photoaging , kugwiritsidwa ntchito kwa beta hydroxy acid kwakula kwambiri. Pali mitundu iwiri ya hydroxy acid: alpha ndi beta. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) ndi ma exfoliants omwe amachokera ku shuga ndi zipatso za mkaka monga glycolic acid , omwe amachokera ku shuga ndi lactic acid (yomwe imapangidwa kuchokera ku mkaka).
Pali beta imodzi yokha ya hydroxy acid (BHA) imene imagwiritsidwa ntchito popangira mankhwala a khungu, ndipo ndi salicylic acid, yomwe imachokera ku aspirin.
Momwe Beta Hydroxy Acid Imachita
Beta hydroxy acid amagwira ntchito makamaka ngati yopusa. Zimayambitsa maselo a epidermis (kutalika kwa khungu) kukhala "osalu," kulola kuti maselo a khungu akufa, kuti athetseretu khungu latsopano. Beta hydroxy acid imatchulidwa kuti imapangitse kukwinya, kugwedeza, ndi kutsekemera kwa khungu la khungu pambuyo pa miyezi isanu ndi umodzi ya tsiku ndi tsiku. Beta hydroxy acid yomwe imapezeka mu skincare mankhwala imagwira bwino kwambiri pa 1% mpaka 2 peresenti ndi pH ya 3 mpaka 4.
Kusiyana pakati pa Alpha ndi Beta Hydroxy Acids
Kusiyanitsa kwakukulu pakati pa alpha hydroxy acids ndi beta hydroxy acid ndi mankhwala awo (mafuta). Alpha hydroxy acids amatha kusungunuka madzi okha, pamene beta hydroxy acid imakhala yosungunuka, yomwe imatanthauza kuti idzasungunuka mu mafuta.
Izi zikutanthauza kuti beta hydroxy acid imatha kulowa mkati mwa pore, yomwe imakhala ndi sebum wambiri komanso imachotsa maselo a khungu omwe amamangidwa mkati mwa pore. Chifukwa cha kusiyana kumeneku, bizinesi ya hydroxy acid imagwiritsidwa bwino ntchito kwa khungu lamatenda ndi maluwa ndi maluwa . Alpha hydroxy acids amagwiritsidwa ntchito bwino pa khungu, lomwe limawonongeka ndi dzuwa kumene kupumula sikuli vuto.
Kutha kwa dzuwa
Kugwiritsiridwa ntchito kwa beta hydroxy acid kungapangitse mphamvu zowononga dzuwa ndi 50 peresenti, kuchititsa vuto lochititsa chidwi. Zikuwoneka kuti beta hydroxy acid ikhoza kubwezeretsa china chowonongeka chochitidwa ndi photoaging, koma panthawi imodzimodziyo, zimapangitsa khungu kukhala losavuta kujambula. N'zomveka kuti aliyense amene amagwiritsa ntchito beta hydroxy acid ayenera kugwiritsa ntchito khungu la dzuwa lomwe lili ndi chitetezo cha UVA ndi UVB .
Onetsetsani Khungu la Khungu
Beta hydroxy acid saoneka ngati yosautsa kwambiri kusiyana ndi alpha hydroxy acid, ngakhale kuti imalowa mkati mwa pore. Izi zimachitika chifukwa salicylic acid imachokera ku acetylsalicylic acid kapena aspirin. Aspirin ili ndi zotsutsana ndi zotupa, ndipo salicylic acid imakhala ndi zinthu zambiri zotsutsa-zotupa. Ngakhale zili choncho, beta hydroxy acid ikhoza kuyambitsa kupsa mtima kwa khungu. Zizindikiro za mkwiyo zimaphatikizapo kufiira, kuyaka, kuyabwa, kupweteka, komanso mwina kupweteka. Anthu omwe ali ndi khungu lakuda kwambiri ali pachiopsezo chachikulu chotayira mtundu wa pigment kusintha ndi beta hydroxy acid.
Kugwiritsa ntchito Beta Hydroxy Acid
Beta hydroxy acid imapezeka m'magulu osiyanasiyana omwe amasamalira mankhwala, kuphatikizapo zowonongeka, oyeretsa, zonona zamaso, sunscreen, ndi maziko. Ndi bwino kusankha chinthu chimodzi chomwe chiri ndi maonekedwe abwino a beta hydroxy acid kuti mugwiritse ntchito monga mankhwala anu osakanikirana, kenako musankhe mankhwala ena othandizira khungu kapena zodzoladzola zomwe mulibe hydroxy acids kuti muchepetse mwayi wa khungu.
Kugwiritsira ntchito beta hydroxy acid mu malo osungira mafuta kungakhale bwino. Oyeretsa omwe ali ndi beta hydroxy acid sali othandiza chifukwa beta hydroxy acid ayenera kumangiriridwa mu khungu kukagwira ntchito. Anthu oyeretsa amatsukidwa asanayambe kumwa.
Palibe mankhwala ogwiritsira ntchito beta hydroxy acid ndi sunscreen chifukwa sunscreen sizakhazikika pa pH zomwe zimafunikira kuti beta hydroxy acid ikhale yogwira mtima. Mpukutu wa dzuwa uyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito mwaufulu pamene mukugwiritsa ntchito beta hydroxy acid mankhwala. Dzuŵa la dzuwa liyenera kukhala ndi SPF yokwana 15 pofuna kuteteza UVB (pafupifupi 30 kapena kuposera) ndipo ili ndi avobenzone, titanium dioxide, kapena zinc oxide ya chitetezo cha UVA.
Beta hydroxy acid amagwira ntchito bwino kwambiri pakati pa 1 ndi 2 peresenti komanso pH ya 3 mpaka 4. Koma mwatsoka, opanga zodzoladzola sayenera kuphatikizapo pH chidziwitso pa chizindikiro. Njira yokhayo yodziwira pH ya mankhwala ndi kuyesa izo ndi pH.
Mosiyana ndi alpha hydroxy acid, yomwe iyenera kulembedwa m'magulu atatu apamwamba kuti asonyeze zoyenera, beta hydroxy acid ingathe kulembedwa pakati kapena ngakhale pansi pa mndandanda wazitsulo chifukwa ndiwothandiza pamunsi.
> Chitsime:
> Beta Hydroxy Acids. US Food and Drug Administration. https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIzigawo / Zosakaniza/ucm107943.htm.