Kodi Alpha Hydroxy Acid Skin Peel ikhoza kuchepetsa Wrinkles?
Ndi kufufuza kwowonjezereka pa zomwe zimayambitsa makwinya ndi zotsatira za photoaging , alpha hydroxy acids yakula kwambiri mu kutchuka.
Alpha hydroxy acids akhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito kwa zaka masauzande ngati khungu lobwezeretsa mankhwala. Cleopatra akuti akutsuka mkaka wowawasa (lactic acid) kuti apange tsitsi lake. Tsopano hydroxy acids ndi yowonjezera yowonjezera ku zinthu zambiri zosamalira khungu, kuphatikizapo zowonongeka, oyeretsa, toners, ndi masks.
Zowonongeka ndi Mitundu ya Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids amachokera ku shuga ndi zipatso za mkaka. Mankhwala omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pogwiritsa ntchito alpha hydroxy acid ndi glycolic acid ndi lactic acid chifukwa ali ndi luso lapadera lolowera pakhungu. Amakhalanso ndi deta yodziwika bwino pa zotsatira zawo zothandiza. Zotsatirazi ndizo mitundu ikuluikulu isanu ya alpha hydroxy acids yomwe imapezeka mu skincare mankhwala ndi magwero awo:
- Glycolic acid: nzimbe
- Lactic acid: mkaka
- Malic acid : maapulo ndi mapeyala
- Citric acid: malalanje ndi mandimu
- Tartaric acid: mphesa
Momwe Alpha Hydroxy Acids amagwira Ntchito pa Khungu
Alpha hydroxy acids amagwira ntchito kwambiri ngati yoposera . Amayambitsa maselo a epidermis (pamwamba pa khungu) kukhala "osalu" pofuna kuti maselo a khungu akufa asasunthike, kupanga malo obwezeretsa khungu latsopano. Alpha hydroxy acids angayambitsenso kupanga collagen ndi elastin.
Alfa hydroxy acids amavomerezedwa kuti apangitse makwinya, kutentha komanso kutsekemera kwa khungu kamene kamatha kugwira ntchito patatha miyezi yambiri.
Alpha hydroxy acids yomwe imapezeka mu skincare mankhwala amagwira ntchito bwino pakati pa 5 ndi 8% komanso pH ya 3 mpaka 4.
Zotsatira za Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Zotsatira ziwiri zazikulu za alpha hydroxy acids ndizokwiya komanso kutengeka kwa dzuwa. Zizindikiro za mkwiyo zimaphatikizapo kufiira, kuyaka, kuyabwa, kupweteka komanso mwakuda.
Anthu omwe ali ndi khungu lakuda kwambiri ali pachiopsezo chachikulu chokhala ndi scarce pigment kusintha ndi alpha hydroxy acids. Kugwiritsiridwa ntchito kwa alpha hydroxy acids kungapangitse dzuwa kutengeka ndi 50 peresenti, kuchititsa vuto lochititsa chidwi.
Zikuwoneka kuti alpha hydroxy acids ikhoza kubwezeretsa china chowonongeko chochitidwa ndi photoaging, koma panthawi imodzimodziyo, amachititsa kuti khungu likhale losavuta kujambula. N'zachidziwikire kuti aliyense wogwiritsa ntchito alpha hydroxy acids ayenera kugwiritsa ntchito khungu la dzuwa lomwe lili ndi chitetezo cha UVA ndi UVB . Dziwani kuti maswiti ambiri oteteza dzuwa samatetezera ku mazira a UV, kuwala komwe kumakhudza kwambiri ukalamba.
Zotsatira za FDA
Chifukwa cha nkhaŵa zokhudzana ndi zotsatira za alpha hydroxy acids, a FDA mu 1997 adalengeza kuti alpha hydroxy acids ndi otetezedwa kuti ogwiritsidwe ntchito ndi awa:
- Mndandanda wa AHA ndi 10% kapena osachepera
- Chotsiriza chimakhala ndi pH ya 3.5 kapena apamwamba
- Chogwiritsira ntchito chomaliza chiyenera kukhala ndi mawotchi othandizira a dzuwa polemba kapena kuchenjeza anthu kuti agwiritse ntchito mankhwala opangidwa ndi dzuwa
Mitundu ya mankhwala
Alpha hydroxy acids m'magulu osiyanasiyana amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu mankhwala a mankhwala. Mankhwalawa amapereka zotsatira zomwe zili ngati microdermabrasion -pamene mizere yabwino ndikupereka khungu kuwoneka bwino ndi limodzi kapena atatu.
Mankhwalawa ayenera, komabe, kubwerezedwa miyezi itatu kapena isanu ndi umodzi kuti azioneka ngati khungu. Madokotala akhoza kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala a alpha hydroxy acid omwe ali ndi chiwerengero cha 50 mpaka 70 peresenti. Alfa hydroxy mankhwala peel mankhwala amachotsa makwinya abwino ndikuchotsa zilonda zam'mwamba, koma zotsatira zake zimatha zaka ziwiri kapena zisanu.
Mapamwamba a alpha hydroxy acid omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito m'magulu a mankhwala, amayamba kupsa mtima khungu. Pakati pa 50 mpaka 70 peresenti, munthu akhoza kuyembekezera kukhala ndi ubweya wofiira, kuthamanga ndi khungu lomwe lingathe kukhala masabata amodzi kapena asanu.
Alpha ndi Beta Hydroxy Acids
Pali beta imodzi yokha ya hydroxy : salicylic acid .
Kusiyanitsa kwakukulu pakati pa alpha hydroxy acids ndi beta hydroxy acid ndi mankhwala awo (mafuta). Alpha hydroxy acids amatha kusungunuka madzi okha, pamene beta hydroxy acid ndi lipid (mafuta) yosungunuka. Izi zikutanthauza kuti beta hydroxy acid imatha kulowa mkati mwa pore, yomwe imakhala ndi sebum ndipo imachotsa maselo a khungu omwe amamangidwa mkati mwa pore.
Chifukwa cha kusiyana kotereku, beta hydroxy acid imagwiritsidwa bwino ntchito pa khungu lamoto ndi maluwa ndi maluwa . Alpha hydroxy acids amagwiritsidwa ntchito bwino pa khungu, lomwe limawonongeka ndi dzuwa kumene kupumula sikuli vuto.
Kusankha Mankhwala a Acidixy Hydroxy Acid
Alpha hydroxy acids amapezeka m'magulu osiyanasiyana, kuphatikizapo zowonongeka, oyeretsa, zonona zamaso, sunscreen, ndi maziko. Komabe, ndi bwino kusankha chinthu chimodzi chomwe chiri ndi maonekedwe abwino a alpha hydroxy acid kuti mugwiritse ntchito monga exfoliant, ndikusankha mankhwala ena othandizira khungu kapena zodzoladzola zomwe mulibe alpha hydroxy acids kuti achepetse mwayi wa khungu.
Kugwiritsira ntchito alpha hydroxy acid mu malo osungira mafuta kungakhale chinthu chabwino kwambiri chogwiritsidwa ntchito. Oyeretsa okhala ndi alpha hydroxy acids sali othandiza chifukwa alpha hydroxy acid ayenera kulowa mu khungu kukagwira ntchito. Anthu oyeretsa amatsukidwa asanayambe kumwa.
Mpukutu wa dzuwa uyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito mwaufulu pamene mukugwiritsa ntchito alpha hydroxy acid mankhwala. Mpweya wa dzuwa uyenera kukhala ndi SPF wokwana 15 wokonzera ulusi wa UVB ndipo uli ndi avobenzone, titanium dioxide kapena zinayi oxide ya chitetezo cha UVA.
Alpha hydroxy acids amagwira ntchito bwino pakati pa 5 ndi 8 peresenti ndi pH ya 3 mpaka 4. Koma mwatsoka, opanga zodzoladzola safunikanso kupereka ndondomeko ya ndondomeko pa chizindikirocho. Monga lamulo lachiwindi, kukhala ndi alpha hydroxy acid yomwe ili mndandanda wachiwiri kapena wachitatu pa mndandanda umapangitsa kuti zikhale bwino. Njira yokhayo yodziwira kuti pH ya mankhwala ndiyeso ndi test pH.
Pamunsi pa Alpha Hydroxy Acids kwa Wrinkling
Alpha hydroxy acids monga chigawo cha mankhwala odzola, zokometsera, kapena zinthu zina zothandizira khungu zingasinthe zina mwa kuwonongeka kumeneku chifukwa chojambula zithunzi. Mu mawonekedwe a mankhwala osokoneza bongo, makamaka pa ofesi yapamwamba ku ofesi ya madokotala, izi zikhoza kusintha maonekedwe a makwinya ndi zipsera zabwino kwa zaka zingapo. Alpha hydroxy acids amagwira ntchito bwino kwa anthu omwe ali ndi khungu lopunduka, lomwe limawonongeka dzuwa, pamene beta hydroxy acids ikhoza kukhala yabwino kwa iwo omwe ali ndi khungu lopangidwa ndi akhungu.
Ngakhale kuti amatha kuwongoletsa khungu la dzuwa, alpha hydroxy acids ingathandizenso kutulutsa dzuwa komanso kuonjezera chiopsezo cha khungu ndi dzuwa. Kuvala chophimba cha dzuwa chabwino chomwe chimaphatikizapo kufotokozera mazira a UVA ndi UVB n'kofunika ngati mumasankha kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwalawa.
> Zotsatira:
> Tran, D., Townley, J., Barnes, T., ndi K. Greive. Njira Yothandizira Khungu la Anti Anti-Skin ndi Mavitamini Amapangitsanso Zomwe Zimayambitsa Khungu la Maso. Dermatology ya Clinic, Cosmetic and Investigational . 2014. 8: 9-17.
> Weller, Richard PJB, Hamish JA Hunter, ndi Margaret W. Mann. Dermatology Clinic. Chichester (West Sussex): John Wiley & Son Inc., 2015. Print.